Day One Hundred & Fifty Seven - Khawaja On The Run

The location of my new home is perfect for running. We are rather secluded compared to where I was previously living; therefore, I can run freely down the roads in the area. There is only one short stretch, maybe 10 meters, of tarmac and then it is dirt roads from there on. The roads may be miserable to drive on, but they are good to run on. A natural ground for my feet to plant themselves on.

When I say I can run freely I mean that I do not have to wait around for a driver to take me to the UNMIS track. I can run right out my compound gate and run freely down the road, with only the people to stare at me, greet me and when I am lucky I even have people join me on my run. I am quite encouraged by the people I pass and it may sound silly but I am challenged to run a little faster because I am always being watched. It is like I am in competition with the people I pass. I have something to prove to them. I would never dare start walking.

On Monday I had about 10 boys and girls, running behind me for almost 5 minutes. It was slightly awkward because I knew that they could all school me, but none of them passed me so it was cool. Why not bring more attention to myself with a group of cute kids running behind me, right? On Tuesday I went to put on my runners and lo and behold they were sopping wet. The ladies that clean my room and do my laundry thought it would be a good idea to clean them for me. Very nice of them but NOT appreciated at all. Runners just are not meant to be washed. So that being said I put my anything but dry, however clean runners and went on my way. I had a girl, maybe 16 years old, run along side me for a minute this time. Considering she was in flip-flops she kept up very well. I asked her name but I didn’t quite catch it…Today was a quiet run (with dry runners). I started early enough to see a gorgeous sunrise. It was lovely.

Day One Hundred & Fifty Four - Imagine

Recently I have been having conversations with people who have been in South Sudan since before the Comprehensive Peace Agreement (CPA) was signed in 2005. It is unimaginable what they experience. Juba is extremely different from what it was two years ago. I can’t imagine how much it has changed in the past five years and more. Part of me would have liked to experience South Sudan before now, but at the same time what would that do for me. Put some more experience under my belt living in an insecure country. Living a very minimalist lifestyle. Having only one or two places to go out to where there were only a handful of expats around. Experiencing Juba only having 30 vehicles. Seriously three years ago there were only 30 vehicles in Juba. No there are sooo many. Mostly driven by people who don’t know how to properly drive. Security was much more intense than it is now, and even now, for me, to see soldiers walking about with AK47s is certainly not a normal thing and I do not thing I will ever really get used to it. People who have lived here for years however are used to it. It is their normal. Seriously Juba turned into an entirely new place in the last two years. The people who have been part of this transformation and who have experienced it first hand intrigue me to no end.

I was telling a friend how much I like living here and it made me start to think of why. It obviously is not the most luxurious place to be. There are limited places where one can go and have fun. Getting around is at times difficult. Living here involves being very organized when it comes to logistical things. Logistics is usually a problem. It is hot and dusty and bugs. I was attacked so many times tonight. Bugs stuck in my hair. Not cool. However, I love the people here. I have met so many interesting and amazing people. Surprisingly enough it is easy to become attached to this place. I have probably already shared these sentiments with you. The fact that I am still here is evidence enough of how I am enjoying myself and how Juba is treating me.

John Lennon has an extremely famous song, Imagine, which I feel represents a part of what South Sudan has accomplished. People dreamed of peace, of living in unity with one another. They lived through hell, millions of lives were lost and for those who survived were fortunate enough to see the dream of peace become a reality. Now I am not saying that South Sudan is fully united and there is no conflict. Compared to what South Sudan was three years ago, five years ago, ten years ago, twenty years ago, South Sudan is an entirely different place and a million times more peaceful than what is was.

What has gone on in this country is overwhelming and extremely hard to fully comprehend what life was like in South Sudan before 2011. And I know I never will, but I can listen to stories, read about history and make myself aware of what people went through to create the country I live in today...


Any place can be beautiful if you have an open mind, open eyes and an open heart...

Day One Hundred & Forty Nine - To and Fro

The sun is shining. I was just mauled by the new dog (name yet to be determined) at the compound, so I was covered in orange dirt. Lovely. Originally she was called Cashew (because she is a nutty dog according to her previous owner) but I advocated that she be renamed and her current owner has yet to dub her with a new name. She is a cute and very hyper little pup.

I have attempted to wake up at 6:30am for the past 3 days. Every morning my alarm goes off, moan and roll over to get up but end up resetting it to 7:30am. Fail. I can’t figure out why I am so tired. Goal for tomorrow is to wake up at 7:00am. Gradual changes ya? The location of the new compound I am living at is quite perfect for running because it is not a very public location. I can run alone without being bothered and do not have to worry about being mowed down by vehicles passing by.

I decided to listen to Christmas music this evening after I went for a run (yes I am continuing to write this post as the day passes by) and I could not have chosen a better album to start off with. A Charlie Brown Christmas album is excellent. Beautiful music and it does not overwhelm you with Christmas cheer. It gives you the right amount of warm feelings in your heart that you feel when you know that it is the Christmas season. Back home there is snow on the ground, it is getting colder and colder each day. I am sure people have their Christmas lights up on their houses and stores have all their Christmas decorations out on display. Here on the other hand, there is more dirt/dust on the ground; it is getting hotter and hotter each day. There are no Christmas lights on any of the houses, unless you count Home and Away Restaurant but theirs are up all year round, and there are no stores that have Christmas decorations on display. This is all a new experience for me. I have never been outside of Canada this time of year. For this reason, it does not even feel like November.

Day One Hundred & Forty Three - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle

Today I printed about 25 pages of documents, non of which were double sided. In the process of printing these documents I wasted about the same amount of pieces of paper due to printer difficulties. And you know what is so bad about this? All of these papers get put in the garbage. I am keeping them for scrap paper, but the majority of people throw them in the trash. I have though about this issue a lot. The whole issue of the lack of, or shall I say non-existent, recycling system here. The only things that get recycled are some water bottles and of course beer bottle get reused. Water bottles get reused for various purposes – soap holders, water, and petrol, cooking oil containers, which are sold to the public or used in restaurants. This is actually very clever because they poke holes in the cap and then can use it as a sprinkle/control the amount of liquid that comes out.

HOWEVER. SO MUCH IS WASTED HERE!

It hurts me a little every time I see someone throw trash on the ground or throw away something that back home could be recycled.

Here you bury your trash, throw it in the nearest giant pile of trash or burn it. The smell of burning trash will never get old, nor will it ever be pleasant. Funny thing about burning trash here, it reminds me of living out at the acreage and when we would burn the trash in the burning barrel.

In short, the implementation of a recycling program would be fabulous here. Obviously this is not the top on the list of what South Sudan needs but it certainly would help with sanitation and cleanliness.

Day One Hundred & Forty Two - Mirror

Last night I was lying in bed thinking about how I do not have a mirror in my bathroom and I would really like to have one. A mirror is such a simple thing that a lot of people would not think twice about because typically there is always a mirror in a bathroom, and multiple mirrors in a house. A mirror will come I just have to be patient. I guess that some people rarely see their own reflection in a mirror. They do not wake up in the morning and go look at themselves in the mirror. These thoughts reminded me of a day when I was walking down the street here in Juba and I walked past 4 little boys, maybe between ages five and ten, dancing around and checking themselves out in a storefront window. This window was basically a mirror with the kind of tinting it had on it, and these boys were having the time of their lives. It was so cute. My perception of the situation was that these boys were so fascinated with their reflection because they do not often see what they look like.

Just an observation...

Day One Hundred & Forty Two - November

November snuck up on me like a ghost. It feels like October just began and now it is November.

November rains apparently. It rained all evening yesterday and most of the night and it is continuing to rain this morning.

I am officially moved out of my tent and into my new room at the new compound, which is located across the city. So this compound is build on the grounds of the military hospital making for interesting surroundings and interesting security measures at the gate. Slightly inconvenient but I shall make it work. Security will be worked out and I will become a pro at logistics, maybe, or I will just get frustrated with organizing rides, time will tell.

My new room is big enough to fit a huge bed, desk and wardrobe. I have my own bathroom shower and all. I really really really like not having to go outside to use the toilet. I can just roll out of bed and walk 2 feet. No more trekking through the dirt at night to use the toilet and my feet will stay clean after my shower. Very luxurious. I am hoping to switch out my big bed for a smaller bed so that I can have more room to move around. A single bed will suffice as long as the mattress is nice.

Day One Hundred & Forty One - Jebel

I climbed a mountain on Saturday. Literally, not figuratively. This mountain is called Jebel. It was not a very large mountain, but a mountain nonetheless. Jebel means mountain in Arabic.

The morning could not have been more perfect for climbing. It was cloudy, cool and there was a lovely breeze to keep us from sweating excessively. I climbed with about 15 UN staff, all of which are in better shape than me, but I made it. It is not that intense of a climb.

You start the hike near Rock City, passing women crushing rocks, children playing and men sitting drinking tea. At the base of the mountain there are tukkels where I assume the people crushing rock live. All the children call out “Morning! Morning!” The grass gets taller and taller the higher up you climb. It was at least 6 feet tall in some areas. Certainly tall enough that you could get lost if you took the wrong path. Closer to the top it becomes very steep and very rocky. Not nice rocks that will give you a good foothold but smooth rocks that make you fear slipping. The last stretch of the climb is a nice break from the steep incline you previously climbed. Flat rock on the top of the mountain, which you eventually have to scale up to reach the very top. I was quite impressed with myself that I did not fall on the way up.

The view from the top was beautiful. On one side of the mountain you have Juba, with blue, red and brown roofs looking back at you. On the other side you have tukkels and more blue and red roofs looking back at you. An entirely different perspective of Juba and the surrounding area. The clouds overhead were numerous and lovely. There were dozens of hawks flying up and down and along the mountainside.

It was a wonderful Saturday morning in Juba.

Day One Hundred & Thirty Four - Sheer Bliss

I have had two excellent days in a row. Let me tell you why.

Yesterday I spent the day in a paradise. Maybe not paradise, but for Juba it really was. I was fortunate enough to be invited to spend the day at a friend of a friend’s villa. They have a beautiful new pool, with loungers and a swim up bar. The pool is deep enough that you can dive in it and it is tiled with 4 shades of blue giving it a really pretty color. The whole place is extremely elaborate and slightly excessive but I am not complaining or judging because living in a tent creates the feeling of having a place like this to go to necessary. It really did not feel like we were in Juba yesterday. It was excellent. Talk about an escape. Good company, sunshine (a little too much sunshine says my red skin), and good music. A perfect way to relax on a Sunday in Juba.

And today folks, I was given a job. Hired. That makes for another excellent day eh? I almost can’t believe it. I am no longer unemployed in Juba and my oh my it is a good feeling. AND the greatest thing about it, besides getting a paycheck and being able to stay here in Juba, is that as of November I will not be living in a tent anymore. Thank you unnamed company.

Day One Hundred & Thirty One - What's In A Name?

I have always had a fascination with the meaning of a name. A name says a lot about a person. A name has an effect on the development of a person’s mind and personality. I don’t think this effect is normally a conscious thing, but sometimes it can be noticeable.

I obviously have not ever had to name a child, but I have though about how hard it would be. A name is so important. I once had a friend tell me a story of when she was travelling in Southeast Asia and she inadvertently named a baby ‘Baby’. She felt horrible thinking about this child somewhere half way across the world growing up being called Baby because some white lady came and awed the community enough to have her mother ask this lady to name her baby. If my friend had understood what was going on she would have given the child a legitimate name, not Baby.

All over the world the birth of a child is an event of joy and significance. In Africa I think that there is more involved in naming a child and there is more attached to it. The hopes of the parents, when the child was born, current events of importance, celestial events that may have occurred when the child was born, many different things can determine the name of a child here. I think it is believed that the name chosen will influence for better or for worse the life of the child. Some of the name meanings I have come across here are: born on Tuesday, born after twins, born at night, or last born, or born under the moon, born in the rainy season. A friend just told me of a name that means, “gathering people together”. This story was told to me so I may have the details incorrect. A little girl was born in 2010 around the time of the referendum and her name means “gathering people together”. She was born in a time where people of South Sudan were coming together and uniting as one to bring freedom to their country. She is named after an incredible time in the worlds history. Meanings like this are so incredible.

Deng is a very common first or last name among the tribes here. Dinka, Nuer and Shilluk tribes all use this name. In Dinka it means “Rain” and it also refers to the heavens or God. The Dinka tribes believe that the most powerful God, god of all gods is ‘Deng’.

The Kikuyu (Gikuyu) are Kenya’s biggest ethnic group. The origin and history behind this ethnic group is very interesting. Their ancestors come from Northern Kenya, and the theory is that many of the other tribes in Kenya broke away from the main Kikuyu group. The Kikuyu themselves moved and ended up residing in the west. The story of when and how the Kikuyu became separate and independent people is stated in oral tradition, which says that the founder of the Kikuyu was a man named Gikuyu. One day, Ngai (God) gave him a wife called Mumbi, and commanded them to build a homestead at the valley with a unique bird species called "Nyagathanga". Some versions of the story say that Ngai first took Gikuyu to the top of Kirinyaga to behold the land that he was giving them. The location is still sacred. Mumbi bore nine daughters, who married and had families, and which eventually became clans. Ngai gave them the highly fertile lands to the southwest of the mountain to live in. These clans – the true ancestors of the Kikuyu – are actually called the ‘full nine’ or ‘nine fully’ (kenda muiyuru), for there also was a tenth daughter, who descended from an unmarried mother in one of the other nine clans (which suggests the later amalgamation of at least one other people into the Kikuyu). Until recently, it was a common taboo for anyone to give the exact number of their children; to violate taboo would portend a bad omen. The names of these nine daughters are commonly used to name women.

Now the point to this little history lesson, the Kikuyu tradition of naming children intrigues me to no end. The Kikuyu see every generation as a replacement of the previous one; therefore, names are passed down from generation to generation. There is a specific system for how this is done. I get slightly confused by which name goes to which person and whose name was who’s originally. So, the first son receives his father’s father’s name. The first daughter receives her father’s mother’s name. The second son receives his mother’s father’s name. The second daughter receives her mother’s mother’s name.
Subsequent children are named similarly after the brothers and sisters of the grandmother and grandfather; from eldest to youngest, alternating from father's to mother's. And from what I understand, a Christian name is given as a first name. A wee bit confusing but interesting to say the least.

My only concern about this naming system is instances where a husband and wife may only have girls, or only have boys. This to me means that names are lost. Kind of like how I have three sisters and no brothers, therefore, unless one of us girls keeps our last name, my father will be the last person in his line to bear the name Wheeler. Sad.

Now my parents did not name me after anyone. This does not mean they did not put any thought into it. I do not know if they looked up the meanings of the names that they gave me, but either way they did well. Caryn is Scandinavian in origin and means ‘Pure’. Danae is Greek in origin and means ‘She who judges’. In my opinion, solid names. Thanks Mom and Dad.

Day One Hundred & Twenty Four - Stranger Company

"Hello. My name is Caryn and you are? I am from Canada. Alberta. I have been here 4 months and still love it. I am volunteering my time at the Juba Orphanage teaching English and searching for employment."

These are the typical first words I say when I meet someone new here. I make a point to not have these sort of questions in my conversation with someone I have just met. I get very tired of answering and asking those questions every single time you meet someone new, which is a very common daily occurrence. The “What’s your name? Where are you from? Why are you here? How long have you been here?” questions are necessary at one point, but it is much nicer to go about a conversation as though you are not a foreigner, living amongst many other foreigners in South Sudan.

However, now that I am here unemployed being asked what I am doing here is a good question because it is necessary for me to make connections in order to find a job. Some people think that I am insane for staying here without a job, others are totally in support of my decision.

On another aspect of how one interacts with people here, it is as though you actually haven’t just met this person. You act as though you have been friends with most people for a while. It is like you have already bonded solely based on the fact that you are both living in a foreign country, going through similar experiences. You talk more freely about things and have very different conversations compared to meeting someone back home. You talk more freely with certain people. It is strange but in the grander scheme of things it makes sense.

Day One Hundred & Twenty Three - Lessons of Patience

“Living in Africa has provided me with lessons of patience and free anger management. An hour for coffee. 20 minutes for sugar. Lesson one of the day.” A friend said this today and I could not to anything but agree with this statement.

One needs to learn to sit back and relax in a world where everything around them seems chaotic and disorganized. Your driver says he will be 2 minutes, in reality he will be at least 20 minutes. There is no fast food apart from the local restaurants, and even sometimes you wait there. The rain causes delays. You are faced with situations you would probably never have to deal with in North America. When it rains here, especially in the field, everything stops. People stop moving and you wait for the rain to finish. I love it. I don’t know if I have ever had a meeting that was right on time, or a driver pick me at the time that he was supposed to, or have been in a situation which did not cause some sort of stress.

Day-to-day, I would say that patience is usually found in abundance here. I feel like it would be accurate to compare local way of life here to what life was life back in Canada in the early 1990s. People cook their food over charcoal burners. This takes time. No fast food. You have to take time to prepare your meals. Many people just sit here. Sit in their shops. Sit in their homes. Sit by their boda’s. Sitting passing time. Avoiding /coping with the heat. There is currently no city power at all so wherever there is power it is coming from the compound/restaurant/shops own generator. This means that there is only power at certain times of the day and that the power will go off unexpectedly. Now even before the issue with city power, power is very unpredictable here and will shut off randomly without any warning, leaving you in the dark, maybe in the shower with no power, or in your dark tent and you are forced to search around blindly looking for your flashlight or maybe walking down the street, without a flashlight, and the power goes out leaving you to stumble around the streets back to wherever you were going. Good times I assure you.

Patience is supposed to be about dealing calmly with frustration (there is a lot of that here), accepting others, taking your time (very easy to do here unless you are on a schedule which requires you to be on time), maintaining one’s composure (easier for some), and showing self-control. Life is often about being in waiting mode. You are always waiting for someone or something.

One needs to learn to sit, chill and watch the world go by without feelings of frustration or irritation.

Patience. Patience. Patience.

Day One Hundred & Twenty Two - Baking

I walked in the hot hot sun today. I was so sweaty by the end of it. I realized however, that while I was in Cairo I walked everywhere in even hotter weather and wasn’t too phased by it. It may be the fact that it is rainy season so there are breaks from the intense heat. In Cairo there were no breaks whatsoever. Slowly, slowly it is getting hotter everyday and there is less rain. Rainy season only lasts until the end of October then the heat really sets in. Less rain equals no walking in mud or getting stranded somewhere to avoid the rain, but it also means sweating profusely and being slightly uncomfortable at all times. You get used to that feeling though which is good.

I made peanut butter cookies today in a friend’s kitchen. It was awesome. They were of course slightly different than the cookies I make back home, different kind ingredients you know, but still good. One taster told me that I needed to teach him how to make them so that he could teach his wife, then his wife could teach their daughter and his daughter could teach her husband. I think he liked them. It was very relaxing to be able to bake like I do at home.

Day One Hundred & Twenty One - Food For Thought

Random thoughts of the day…

Food is a big issue in many places all over the world including South Sudan, despite its incredible fertile land in the southern region. Having enough food is a difficulty for many people. Through my observations I have concluded that there are not too many overweight African, especially in the rural areas, unless they have reached financial success of some kind and can afford the food that brings on extra pounds and inches. Hence why the bigger you are, the more money people think you have. Story: When I was in Torit, I was eating at a local restaurant with Lawrence. Our waiter was Kenyan and we had become regulars at this place so he was quite used to us coming around. The portion of rice any local restaurant gives you is massive and I can never finish it. I always try to ask for a small portion but even with this request, a very large bowl of rice comes with my beans. On this particular day I only ate half of my rice and our waiter made a comment. He told me I should eat all of my rice so I would become fat and beautiful. This comment took my by surprise and I did not quite know how to respond. Lawrence explained to me that Kenyan’s like their women big and it is a sign of wealth. Strange. People from the West are obsessed with weight loss and food, and people here think the exact opposite. Here, when you get fat, you are seen as being successful. This is obviously a generalization, not everyone thinks that fat is the best, but for the most part it is true. I have also had someone at a restaurant make a comment to me about asking for small portion of rice. They said to me “We don’t have that option. Of asking for less. We take what we can get.”

Food costs a lot of money and if you live in the city where you cant grow your own, you have to rely on purchasing all of your food. People living in rural areas, for the most part, can grow enough food to feed their families for a period of time. The length that the food grown will last depends on how good their harvest was and the number of people in their families. From the research I have done in the last 3 months, it was made apparent to me that in the rural areas most people can only grow enough food to support their family and even then they usually do not have enough food. People eat less here, leftovers are not a common occurrence and I think that one meal a day is possibly a common thing. Here in Juba this may not be the case, but outside of Juba this would be a normal thing.

Read this: http://www.sudantribune.com/South-Sudan-warns-food-crisis,40342

Farming was once the primary way of life in nearly every country. People cannot live without food, and nearly all their food comes from crops and animals raised on farms. I have been thinking about food and agriculture a lot lately. I had a friend tell me that I should become a farmer. Obviously I would not have much of a clue how to farm but I have had time on my hands so have been mulling it over in my mind. Growing up on an acreage and spending massive amounts of time on a farm I have always fancied the idea of being a farmer but I have never been convinced that it would become my way of life. I am still young anything could happen right? I met a woman in here who farms with her husband in Uganda. It sounds pretty amazing, however, they ship their vegetables out of the country to Israel and other places. I would want to be providing produce to the local community/region if I were to have a farm. I know from observing my Grampa, Gramma, Aunt and Uncle and all the other relatives and friends farm, that farming is exciting and a rewarding job. You are your own boss, you live and work in a rural environment, working the land, being close to nature, however, I know that it is also an incredibly demanding and unpredictable way of life. You have to be a risk-taker to be a farmer, no? There are so many factors that help determine whether or not your crop will be successful or a failure, and usually it is out of your control. Even so, the successes out weigh the failures and if it were for massive corporations creating these large-scale farms and putting small-scale farmers out of business, farming would be a much better life style to pursue.

Day One Hundred & Twenty - Count Your Blessings

Being thankful opens us up to receiving all sorts of wonderful kinds of blessings. Thanksgiving is not the only time to count ones blessings and share what one is thankful for, but it is a great occasion to gather together with friends and family and really appreciate the good things in life.

What does it mean to be thankful? Feeling thankful for everything you have in your life, the big things and the littlest things. The true blessings in life that are most important to you, the things that make up who you are, where you have come from and where you are today. Of course our lives are never perfect, who wants perfection anyways, but we still strive for perfection and set our goals high. We all know how it is. You reach the top of one mountain only to find another mountain that you have to climb. The thing we have to constantly remind ourselves to be thankful for the experiences, good or bad, in our lives because without them we would not be where you are today.

I know I have thousands of things to be thankful for. The wonderful and incredible family and friends who are spread out all over the world. I would not be where I am today without any of these people. My education. My health. The opportunities I have had to travel to different places around the world and experience the wonders of different cultures. The fact that I have a roof over my head and running water to shower with is more than a lot of people have. The sunshine every morning. The gorgeous moon and stars at night. The delicious food at Florence’s restaurant. My work at the orphanage. And the list goes on and on…

It is easy to get discouraged, especially for me with the situation in am currently in, but I just have to remind myself to look back at all the other mountains I have climbed and obstacles I have hurdled over and acknowledge the growth and progress I have made.

Cherish any kind of lightheartedness in your life. Don’t be the person who takes life to seriously, who doesn’t have time to have fun. Soak in the simple things in life and really appreciate everything you have in your life. You never know when you might lose it.

Day One Hundred & Nineteen - Thanksgiving Sunday

My day began with brunch with a very mediocre brunch had at Central Pub with the girls. Due to the fact that we were so disappointed with brunch we decided to go and get ice cream. I kid you not, I did say ice cream. Thanks to Jessica’s friend it was brought to our attention that there is a shop, which sells ice cream in Malakia. We decided to treat ourselves to some soft serve ice cream. There are even two options to choose from, strawberry pineapple or vanilla and chocolate. We all had vanilla and chocolate swirl. It is not like soft serve ice cream back home but it was good enough to satisfy our sweet tooth. It melted so fast but it was a delicious treat. From here we proceeded to a friends house where we had a very relaxing afternoon, chatting and watching a movie. It was an excellent break from having to sit at a restaurant all day.

At 5 we went to Arkel for a turkey dinner. There was a whole bunch of other Canadians there. It was nice. Turkey, Juba style stuffing that was somehow made in a pan and cut up into squares, odd but not terrible tasting, mashed potatoes, turkey, gravy, vegetable, salad and even Juba style pumpkin pie! Obviously not as good as if I were at home but it was good enough and made the day complete and actually feel a little like Thanksgiving back home.

Day One Hundred & Seventeen - Language

Language is a very interesting thing. If only they were not so difficult to learn and remember. I have learned minimal Dinka, Nuer, and Arabic being here in South Sudan. Surprisingly I have learned more Swahili and Kikuyu.

*Disclaimer: spelling is definitely incorrect for some of the words*

Dinka
Apadape – Thank you
Anapol – How are you?

Nuer
Sho khan – I am married

Juba Arabic
Salam alaykum – Hello
Wa alaykum e-salam – Hello (response)
Ma’a salama – Goodbye
Sabah al kheir – Good morning
Masa al kheir – Good afternoon
Aywa – Yes
La – No
Min fadlik – Please
Shokran – Thank you
Afwan – You’re welcome
Meshi – Ok or Nothing
Mish kala – Problem
Mish mish kala – No Problem
Bi – with
Bidun – without
Kaf halak? – How are you?
Tamum – Everything is fine
Ismi taki monu – What is your name?
Ismi – My name is….
Yalah – Let’s go
Moya - Water

Swahili
Twende – Let’s go
Sawa sawa – Ok
Wapi – Where
Pale – There
Malu – What
Kitambo – A long time ago
Maji – Water
Nataka – I want…
Pole – Sorry
Pole pole - Slow
Gambo – Hi
Keribu – Your welcome
Asante (sana) – Thank you (very much)
Habari? – How are you?
Mambo? – How are you?
Habari yako? – What’s up?
Nini? – What is it?
Hakuna – Nothing
Hakuna Matata – No worries
Mzuri – Fine/good
Mzuri sana – Very well
Poa (slang) – Fine
Ndiyo – Yes
Hapana - No
Rafiki - Friend
Dakika – Wait one moment
Nataka pombe baridi – I want a cold beer
Kahawa - Coffee

Kikuyu
Niwanyita – to hold something “Do you understand me?”
Haiya – astonishment (expression)
Kikii? – What is it?

Day One Hundred & Sixteen - There's A Hole In Your Road Dear Juba...

Today I taught 16 kids, ages 8-16, English. On my way to the class I had no clue what age group I would be teaching so preparing for it was not possible. It was good but challenging to keep the kids focused when they are all at different levels of learning AND when they would rather be outside playing football. By the end of the lesson I was covered in multiple colors of chalk and sweaty as all get out. My boda boda ride home dried me out real nice though.

I arrived at Arkel to see Alexandra and Jessica walking down the road. So I call them to see where they are going and make them aware that I am walking right behind them. Alexandra informed me that she had got the HiLux rorally stuck and were on their way to get it out with some help. I walk up to the scene to find the HiLux with its front end in a hole. Seriously. The vehicle was sitting on 3 wheels, looking quite precarious in the mud puddle. With the help of another vehicle, the HiLux was freed from the massive crater in the road with no damage to be seen. Only the pride of the driver was hurt a little. The crazy thing is that we saw a Hiace (mini van taxi) stuck in the exact same place this morning. This hole is very deceiving. It looks just like a regular mud puddle but in reality that mud was keeping a massive hole hidden. After this crisis was over, we drove to dinner; only to find a truck stuck in the exact same hole the HiLux had just been pulled out of.



Juba your roads are unpredictable, changing day-by-day, muddy and treacherous to walk AND drive on.

That is all.

Peace.

*Featured in this post today are the lovely ladies, Alexandra and Jessica*

Day One Hundred & Thirteen - In The Dark

Imagine life without electricity, not just a brief power outage. We have all experienced power outages and all know how inconvenient life becomes when the electricity goes off, even if it is only for a few hours. The way I currently live my life makes me dependent on the fact that I will have electricity. When living in a place that has reliable electricity it is hard to imagine living without it, however, living in a place where city power is unpredictable and generators are a common source of power, imagining what life would be like without electricity becomes more of a reality.

Last night I went out to get water at 9pm. It was dark and the stars were shining high in the sky. On my way back from the store, I was walking past the compound, which is next to Trans and I heard women laughing. It was pitch dark wherever the women were sitting but I could tell that they were probably sitting together enjoying each other’s company. It made me want to join them. They sounded so happy. This got me thinking about how it is perfectly normal for locals here to live without electricity. It is normal for them to sit around in the dark, maybe around a fire and still function normally, compared to me who has never lived without power for a prolonged period of time. I have experienced power outages but they never lasted very long and I saw them as being a huge inconvenience. Power outages and not having electricity is normal for many people here. They live a way that no power is needed. They are not dependent on electric powered things to function in their day-to-day lives. Me on the other hand and the majority of other expats can barely function without power. With all of our electronics that need to be charged, the necessity of the Internet, needing light to get ready in the morning and the list goes on. Power cutting out is a regular occurrence here and we are rarely without power in the compound here so we are fortunate.

Entertainment. Back home it seems that the majority of things we use to entertain ourselves now require power. Televisions, computers, any kind of music player, games, etc, etc, etc. I know that there are things that do not require power but electricity is so important for our daily lives back home. If we lived without electricity what would we do to entertain ourselves? Perhaps we would have better relationships with our families, friends and neighbors. We would most likely be more active. We would read more. Probably play more musical instruments, and the list goes on.

AND I think people who live here are way more accustomed to the dark better than me. Walking at night without a flashlight is quite a feat in itself. Navigating Juba roads in the dark is a bit of a challenge considering the uneven terrain and multitude of puddles and piles of trash. People here walk as if they are walking in day light on even ground. Then there is me who stumbles around and has to walk cautiously so that I do not step right into a nasty puddle. I have noticed that my eyes have started to adjust at night. I have started to recognize different shadows so I can determine how big a dip in the road is or how deep a hole is.

I left my blow dryer and flat iron behind when I came here and there has not been a day I have missed them. For one thing, the thought of blowing hot air on my head when it is already hot in my tent does not sound appealing. Those are two things that require electricity that I can obviously live without. On the other hand, living with out my computer, phone and camera are a different story. I know that I am fully dependent on those 3 things and feel slightly lost without them. I know from experience in the field where power is usually limited that I can live without these things. When you have no other option, you cope. No electricity means you have to find ways to go about your business without it.

Living a life that is so dependent on power and with advances in technology, our lives are going to be continually changed and controlled by electricity. Living without electricity does not need to be difficult provided you chose to live your life in a way that does not require power 24/7.

Day One Hundred & Nine - Good Rain

If there's a hole in your soul you better fill it.
If your cup is over flowing don't spill it.
You better hold it while the whole world is spinning around.
And when your eyes look down at another just remember that he's your own brother.
This kind of love ain't gonna go under I've found.
That when you love one another only good rain comes down.

And if you're feeling like you've stopped learning.
If the wood in your fire ain't burning.
You better spark a match start turning your wheel.
You better turn in so it’s right start living.
Stop taking and start giving.
This is the one thing missing I feel.

The love of one another is the only thing real.
Well don’t let your blessings turn into stone.
That kind of live will live you all alone.

If there’s a hole in your soul you better fill it.
If your cup is over flowing don’t spill it.
You better hold it while the whole world is spinning around.
Don’t let your blessings turn into stone.
That kind of live will live you all alone.
And if your heart is troubled by a feeling.
Just remember there’s a way to spark healing,
The first step is when you start believing it’s real.
And this is the only thing missing I feel.

The love of one another is the only thing real.

(Lyrics from Trevor Hall - Good Rain)

Day One Hundred & Eight - Juba Orphanage

I received a call at 11 am today and on the other end was a man wondering if I could come for a meeting at the Juba Orphanage right away. I of course said yes considering the fact I was not doing anything important.

I hopped on a boda boda and made my way to the orphanage. I was meeting about a position I inquired about late last week. It is a teaching position 3 days a week for 2 hours in the evening. It doesn’t pay enough for it to really matter so I am just going to volunteer my services until I get a job or come back to Canada. I am excited. It will be nice to have something to do during the day besides sit on the internet looking for jobs and wasting the rest of my day trying to find something to do. Yay.

Juba Orphanage was founded in November 1962 during the first civil war in Sudan. The goal of the facility was to take in children who were separated from their families during the war, with the hope of reuniting the children with their families at a later date. The Juba Orphanage is one the only government run orphanages in South Sudan housing children from many tribes and from every state. Today there are 76 children living in home, ranging in age from 2 – 20 years old.

I am excited to meet the children and be a part of their lives, even if it is only for a short period of time.

Day One Hundred & Seven - The Comment

“Hello my beautiful. You are just my size.”

Any suggestions on how to respond to this comment?

Yea, I just kept walking.

Day One Hundred & Six - Life Is Real

"I live my life the way I want I got nothing to hide nothing at all. Life is not a fairy tale life, they should know that life is real. I live my life the way I want, I got nothing to hide nothing at all. Life is not a fairy tale, life is about more cause life is real."

These words come from a song sung by Ayo. I have recently discovered her and really like this song of hers, specifically these words.

Life is real and ultimately you make the decisions that determine the direction your life is going to in. Even if you did not directly made the decision, at some point you made a decision which brought you to where you are today. I am sure we have all asked ourselves, "Am I living the life that I’m capable of living with all my talents? Have I fully explored the possibilities within me?" Can any of us really say that we’re living life 100%, and living up to the possibilities hidden away within us? Can you and I live lives dramatically more powerful than the lives we’re living now?

Living a good life, living life as real as you can, certainly means different things to different people. "The good life" is the life you want to live that is full of simple pleasures that make you happy, the compassionate deeds you perform, the goals you set for yourself, the relationships you make and maintain and the legacy you leave behind. Living a life that is 'real' is about appreciating all of your time, not just the time you have to relax, leisure time, but every moment in life. Good or bad. There are way too many people who are caught up in the mad rush of corporate lifestyle, absorbed completely in ourselves, slowly growing numb to the little moments in life, the simple moments that make life magical. Obviously this is a generalization, not everyone is like this but it is so easy to get caught up in our own lives, our own problems. This causes us to lose sight of the simple pleasures in life, which ultimately make life more enjoyable. Appreciatte life's simple pleasures. The best things in life are free. A beautiful night sky. A first glimpse of a firefly. Life's greatest simple pleasures can only be observed when you have a mindful awareness of your surroundings and you are taking the time to really take in your surroundings.

Slow your step. Slow down. Appreciate life's simple pleasures. Take the time to strengthen and nurture relationships in your life. Learn about different things. Who wants to know everything about only one thing. This is what many people, employers, etc are desiring from people. Let me tell you. Apparently you need to have a specialization in order to get anywhere in this world. Stupid. I reject that. What is wrong with knowing a little bit about everything. A jack of all trades.
Concentrate on your passions. Travel to distant places. Travelling opens your mind to realities that you could never imagine. Travelling gives you new perspectives, new experiences, new adventures. Travelling changes you.
Talk to strangers. You can learn something new if you talk to strangers. Obviously be smart about it but in my experience I have had very interesting conversations with a complete stranger.
Always keep your promises. Always find the positive side of things. Even negative outcomes hold a positive side. A positive lesson.
Forget perfection. Who wants to be perfect. I certainly do not. The idea of perfection is all relative and personal opinion. Finding what satisfies your needs is all that is necessary.
Do not forget to laugh. Take the road less travelled. It may be a little more rocky and rough but you may discover something no one else has.
And be here now. Right now if the only moment guaranteed to you. Right now is life. Real life. Don't miss it.


-THE ROAD NOT TAKEN-

TWO ROADS DIVERGED IN A YELLOW WOOD,
AND SORRY I COULD NOT TRAVEL BOTH
AND BE ONE TRAVELLER, LONG I STOOD
AND LOOKED DOWN ONE AS FAR AS I COULD
TO WHERE IT BENT IN THE UNDERGROWTH;

THEN TOOK THE OTHER, AS JUST AS FAIR,
AND HAVING PERHAPS THE BETTER CLAIM,
BECAUSE IT WAS GRASSY AND WANTED WEAR;
THOUGH AS FOR THAT THE PASSING THERE
HAD WORN THEM REALLY ABOUT THE SAME,

AND BOTH THAT MORNING EQUALLY LAY
IN LEAVES NO STEP HAD TRODDEN BLACK.
OH, I KEPT THE FIRST FOR ANOTHER DAY!
YET KNOWING HOW WAY LEADS ON TO WAY,
I DOUBTED IF I SHOULD EVER COME BACK.

I SHALL BE TELLING THIS WITH A SIGH
SOMEWHERE AGES AND AGES HENCE:
TWO ROADS DIVERGED IN A WOOD, AND I--
I TOOK THE ONE LESS TRAVELED BY,
AND THAT HAS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE

...ROBERT FROST

Day One Hundred & Five - It's Not Raining On Sunday

I woke up sweating in my tent with only two things on my mind. One, getting out of the tents before the sun started cooking me from inside. Two, yogurt.

It turned out to be just my day because Phoenicia, which has the cheapest and most delicious yogurt, had it in stock. They have not had it for a while so I was very excited. Benedicte and I purchased an array of things for brunch. Bread, cheese, yogurt and a big pineapple. It was all very delicious and a great way to start out the day.

Today was a very relaxing day spent with friends. Good conversation. Good food. Good times.

News of the day for South Sudan: There is an ongoing conflict between Sudan and South Sudan. The borders to the North are going to officially be closed as of December. Just last week there was an article about how the North and South had just signed an agreement regarding opening the border in certain locations. Things change fast. This decision is going to have major impacts on the bordering states, especially with herders who move their livestock along the borders for grazing. Everywhere in the South has been affected by the border issues, so the definite closure of the borders is going to make the situation worse. I am sure the government is making plans for where goods are going to come from instead of the North, but I am sure the issues with food shortages and increased costs of living is going to continue to be an issue everywhere.

http://www.sudantribune.com/South-Sudan-to-shut-borders-with,40237

Day One Hundred & Four - Luck?

I came to my tent, on the other side, to find a bright green praying mantis making its home right beside the opening of my tent. My first reaction was to panic. I thought to myself how on earth am I supposed to get into my tent now!? Then I remembered that I was once told that a praying mantus is a sign of good fortune. I calmed myself down. Looks at it for another minute, then slipped into my tent quickly while trying to prevent the praying mantus from crawling on me. It may be good luck but I certainly do not want it on my body.

These are not my words but I found them quite interesting...

The mantis comes to us when we need peace, quiet and calm in our lives. Usually the mantis makes an appearance when we've flooded our lives with so much business, activity, or chaos that we can no longer hear the still small voice within us because of the external din we've created.

After observing this creature for any length of time you can see why the symbolism of the praying mantis deals with stillness and patience. The mantis takes her time, and lives her life at her own silent pace.

Stillness. Awareness. Creativity. Patience. Mindful. Calm. Balance. Intuition.

These traits have lead the mantis to be a symbol of meditation and contemplation. In Africa, a praying mantis is thought to bring good luck to whomever it lands on and even restore life to the dead. The Bushmen of Africa believe the praying mantis is a divine messenger and whenever one is seen, diviners try to determine the current message.

The mantis never makes a move unless she is 100% positive it is the right thing for her to do. This is a message to us to contemplate and be sure our minds and souls all agree together about the choices we are making in our lives.

Overwhelmingly in most cultures the mantis is a symbol of stillness. As such, she is an ambassador from the animal kingdom giving testimony to the benefits of meditation, and calming our minds.

An appearance from the mantis is a message to be still, go within, meditate, get quite and reach a place of calm. It may also a sign for you to be more mindful of the choices you are making and confirm that these choices are congruent.

Later on in the evening, I made my way to the bathroom, opened the stall door only to be attacked by an unsuspecting insect. After I spent 20 seconds freaking out and thrashing my hair about to make sure it was no longer on my head, I looked down to find a praying mantis on the floor. Dead. By accident, I killed it. Now considering the first half of this post does this mean that I counteracted the good fortune the previous praying mantus on my tent had given me. Maybe this was the praying mantis that was on my tent. Maybe its superstition, maybe praying mantis' really do bring good fortune, who knows. Either way they are an interesting insect and represents something to ponder.

Day One Hundred & Three - On The Other Side

I am now living on the other side of Trans compound. I talk about it as though I have crossed over to the dark side or something. Quite the contrary. As the owner made it clear to me, that side is not the good side. The tents are not as new, or as big as the tent on the side I have been living on for the past three months. The funny thing is that I actually prefer this tent. There is something about it. It is smaller, the canvas is not as thick, thus letting in more light, and the windows are not as nice. However! My bed is awesome. There is a great mattress. Tonight I will have a mosquito net and it will be excellent. Because I am on the other side, I am no longer situated beside the kitchen or anywhere near the common area, which means that I am not rudely woken up at 6am by sweeping, shuffling chairs, and men training to be security guards. Forgetting the fact that I was up from 4:00-5:30am, I slept right until 8:30am without being disturbed.

Sweet lassi. Never heard of it? That is unfortunate. You are missing out on a delicious yogurt based drink that is common in the Indian Subcontinent, which they serve for 10 SSG at Nimule. It is worth it. You can get it sweet or salty. I have never tried the salty but I am sure it would also be good.

There is really not much one can do in Juba besides sitting for hours or working. I have taken to the sitting for hour’s option. It is not very exciting or that much fun, but I do have the time now to read, which I did not have previously. I am sure there are very few expats here who are just here hanging out. I am one of the special ones. Always have to set myself apart from the others right?

Day One Hundred & Two - Indecisiveness

My lack of decision-making skills has finally benefitted me. Slightly hard to believe eh? Its true. No lies.

Here is the story….I had to go and change my flight to Cairo, which was books for 3:15pm on Wednesday the 21st. Obviously I did not want to get on that plane. So off to the airport I went, to the Egypt Air office to change my flight. However, being who I am, I could not make a decision that quickly about when I was going to leave South Sudan and come home to Canada. Huge decision that was evidently causing me great stress and exactly what I said to the travel agent man. He replied to that by saying “Just like marriage. Marriage is a very big decision”. Hahha. So after wasting about 10 minutes of this nice Egyptian man’s time starring at the calendar and deliberately over dates, the man said “I tell you what. I will make it easy for you”. He then proceeded to print out my ticket and write something on it, then told me to come 10-12 days before I want to leave and book my flight. SO KIND. First time ever someone has accommodated my lack of decision-making skills.

Day One Hundred & One - Rustling

For many people, cattle raiding or cattle rustling, is a crime that only happens in old movies, however, here in South Sudan for the cattle keepers and pastoralists it is a reality. It is a deadly business of groups of rustlers forcefully taking peoples cattle usually with automatic weapons and with high numbers of casualities. The act of cattle raiding has been seen as being part of the culture preventing action being taken in order to stop raids. Many people are constantly on the move which means there is no settling down for kids to go to schools. Catlle are a main source of income for Sudanese people. The main causes of cattle rustling are cultural, for dowries, lack of education, harsh climate conditions and a lack of opportunities for employment.

On September 16th there was an article about cattle rusting in Unity State. There was a raid in Mayiandit county that killed 46, displaced over 5,000 and resulted in an estimated 100,000 cattle being stolen. The people who were displaced are now being forced to sleep under trees because they have no where else to go. This is from the article. It is a story of a man who makes his living as a cattle rustler...

Gatreh Lul Deng wonders whether peace is sustainable. He has helped raid thousands of cattle since he was 12 — and killed 15 men along the way. At age 30, he sees cattle raiding as his job.

"How can we live? It's the only way to get married, the only way to survive." Deng says he stopped raiding cattle after the army took his guns. Then, his income plunged. He couldn't get a job making bricks. And, he says, the government won't let him grow as much corn as he needs because of an ongoing land survey.

"If you don't want me to raid cows or to plant, then give me a job. I need a job," he says.

This is just one of the many stories of how people are affected by cattle rustling. According to the United Nations, in 2009 approximately 2,500 people died in tribal violence in Sudan's southern region, much of it from cattle raids.

I have spoken with various people in my work here, and even men travelling to cattle camps in their area fear being raided, not only cattle keepers. They only travel with 5-10 cattle. Every time they go out to the cattle camps to purchase cows to sell in the markets, they are putting their life on the line. It is a dangerous business.

Day One Hundred - Africa

Once Africa gets into you, you get into Africa. There is no other place in the world like it. I would say that the majority of ‘Westerners’ who live here, no matter where they are coming from, what their heritage is either love it or hate it. I do not think it is possible to only kind of like Africa.

I may have already made comments about this but I find it fascinating and it is proven to me almost everyday. What I find fascinating is that contrasts here are in the extremes. The peace of nature and the violence surrounding it, the abundance and the hunger, the slums and the fancy houses that only a small number of people live in. I am also thinking of my experiences in Egypt and in South Africa. In my experience these contrasts exist everywhere.

There seem to be only two sides of the scale here. No in-betweens. No kind of’s, or sort of’s. It is either hot or it is chilly. You are either sweating your butt off or you are chilled due to the rainy weather. The moments where your temperature is ‘just right’ are quite rare. You either rarely/never see bugs and critters or they are taking over the room or there are millions of them swarming around the lights. Bugs come in packs. Our toilet is currently being overrun by termites/ants, and various grasshopper type bugs. Nasty. It is either blue skies with white fluffy clouds or it rains so hard that rivers form on the roads. I actually watched a river form on the road in front of me yesterday. I watched it grow larger and larger. I quite enjoyed the sight of garbage and debris floating past on what 10 minutes before was a dry road. Very entertaining and slightly mind blowing that so much water can fall in such a short amount of time. The roads are either good or they are bad. Tarmac or dried up riverbeds. Which would you chose? A common phrase I have heard from expats and locals from the various places I have been here is, “It is good until it is bad.” Fact. It really is good until it is bad.

Africa is amazing and fascinating and always provides you with some sort of adventure. Africa gets into your blood and once you have been here, whether you have lived here or visited, it never leaves you. And I think when you leave Africa, a part of you is left behind. The part that only belongs in Africa and nowhere else.

Day Ninety Seven - Sleepover

Another day in Juba, where things never go smoothly (I do not know what would I do without moments like this in my life)...

Let me tell you how the cool people do sleepovers here in Juba.

First, you need a tent, preferably one with windows that do not properly close and holes where frogs and bugs can enter.
Second, you need two people to stay in the tent which is really only equipped for one.
Third, you need at least two yoga mats.
Then, you need to live in a climate where it rains excessively large amounts of water in very short periods of time. This is to ensure maximum flooding/water damage to anything that is not properly protected.
Next, you need to live in a place where the electricity is unreliable.

If you are living in this environment and have access to these amenities you are set!

We came home to our lovely abode late last night only to discover that there was no electricity. This is not an unusual occurrence so we dig out our flashlights in the dark so we can get ready for bed. During this process we discover that all of our stuff is wet, including Alexandra’s bed, sheets and pillow. Seriously the bed was soaked. It rained heavily this afternoon and the structural qualities of Alexandra’s tent are less than ideal, hence the water INSIDE the tent. Alexandra was forced to join me on the floor, which I so graciously decided to share with her. She rolled out her yoga mat, and made herself comfortable with her suitcase as a pillow. No frogs came out to play and it was cold enough that the mosquitoes left us be while we slept.

This is how you do a sleepover Juba style.

Peace.

Day Ninety Six - Squatting

Today I moved out of my tent into Alexandra’s tent. I piled my bags into the corner and made myself at home. I plan on sleeping on her floor for the night. I am slightly worried because she has had a frog in her tent so I would really not appreciate that jumping on me in the middle of the night. We shall see what crawls on me… I am officially, once again, a squatter. Too bad Alexandra doesn't have a couch for me to sleep on...

It rained hard enough today that a nice sized river formed itself on the Transmillenium road. So much water, in such a short period of time. I was very grateful I did not have to walk on the road today.

Two new girls arrived on the weekend. One of them is a fellow Canadian so that’s cool. I haven’t met many Canadians during my time here. All of us piled into our exquisite Rav4 and drove on over to our friends awesome compound. Someone told me that apparently George Clooney has stayed at this compound but I am not sure if I believe it. It is a really nice place so it could be true. This is the same place where we cooked dinner one night. We like it. They have a porch, how can we not like it. Sitting outside under the stars, getting eaten alive by mosquitoes, slathering on bug lotion and then enjoying the rest of the evening, in the company of good friends. That is my kind of a relaxing night.

Day Ninety Five - I Blame Climate Control

I am developing a cold. Can you believe it? Seriously. A cold in 30+ degree weather should not be possible, hence why I am blaming climate control. Air conditioning I do not like you and for good reasons. It makes me ill. I have been spending too much time in climate controlled environments. A/C and cooking toxin filled air of Arkel and A/C in the vehicle. Artificial air is not my friend.

This is why I am enjoying the beautiful outdoor patio at Logali. A much better envirionment, better surroundings and most importantly, fresh air!

Day Ninety Three - Just Another Day in Juba

It was very hot today. The sun was unrelentless and shone high in the sky all day.

I spent the day with a new friend getting a little experience with the work he does. It was fun and a very nice distraction for all of the other things I should have been dealing with instead of having fun. Today has been a good day.


I leave you with this....



Who knew...

Day Ninety Two - Sukuma Wiki

Sukuma Wiki is a Kenyan dish which I have come to really enjoy. I am telling you this because I have had it just about every day for the last 8 days.

The Swahili phrase Sukuma Wiki means "push the week", implying that it is a staple used to stretch the family meals to last for the week. It is made from collard greens or kale, boiled with various spices. In Kenya, the plant traditionally used is a tall-growing cabbage variety elsewhere known as "walking stick cabbage" for the tall woody stalk it produces. It is often served with ugali, a porridge type thing made from maize. (Ugali has a very different consistenty than porriage does, it is solid, not runny like porriage, however, the it does remind me of cream of wheat).

The best sukuma wiki I have had was while I was in Aweil this past week, from a place called Pacific. They must have been growing it locally because they had sukuma wiki every day at every meal. I was happy.

Now the Sukuma Wiki I have been eating if from a place called Migingo which is across the tarmac road at the end of Transmillenium road. It is a great place. I get a bowl of beans, a bowl of sukuma wiki and a bowl of rice or ugali AND a bottle of water for a mere 5 SSG, which is about $2 CDN. Now that is my kind of meal.

I just received a dish of masala chips from the cook at Arkel. He is a very kind man. Masala chips are another Kenyan dish and are delicious but not healthy as they are fries. Masala chips are a deliciously spicy alternative to your average fries and go very nicely with a bottle of Kenya's "Finest Quality Lager", Tusker.

Day Ninety One - Mango Juice

I had my first taste of ‘fresh’ mango juice this morning, straight from Cairo, only 4 days old and still delicious. My first swallow brought me back to the streets of Cairo, dusty and bustling with a zillion people and cars. My favorite juice place across from the Nasser metro stop very near to StARS. Right on the corner so conveniently located so as to tempt me ever time I walked past. I just could not resist that juice shop. There was nothing better than a glass of fresh, cold mango juice on a scorching hot summer Cairo day. Typically if I got this juice I would get it to go, which meant they filled a plastic bag with which ever juice you chose and tie it closed with a straw strategically placed in the bag so you could drink from it. Ingenious and so delicious.

I have a lovely co-worker to thank for this. She is so wonderful that she brought a whole 1L bottle of mango juice from Cairo with her. Delicious. It was most certainly the highlight of my day.

Day Ninety - Black Saturday

Through a series of unfortunate events, I am not longer employed by the research firm that I have been working for here in Juba for the past 90 days. My researching days are over. My confidence level has been slightly injured but I will bounce back. Don't worry.

Now for a new adventure!!

The search is on for a new job opportunity, and as usual the search is not very fruitful at this point. But what can I expect after only an afternoon of searching. A job in Juba would be most convenient but I am not committed to staying here. Africa has many countries as we all know, so the possibilities are endless.

There are a thousand ways for things to fall apart and the plans we make sometimes fall apart, but I have faith that it will be alright and something good will come out of this.

A whole new world of possibilities await me now.

Day Eighty Eight - Single White Female

Being the only white female at a restaurant is certainly a special experience. Especially after a walk down the streets as the only khawaja female, light brown hair blowing in the wind, attracting attention by the sole fact that I exist here on earth. Special. I wish I could explain it in a way that you could really understand what it feels like to have every eye on you and experiencing being a foreigner who cannot even attempt to blend in. Maybe if you can picture in your mind a moment in your life when you walked into a room full of people who you did not know, and everyone including yourself knew you did not belong there. And then instead of removing yourself from that situation you continued to walk in the room and take a seat. Khawaja. The one that does not belong, but tries to make it work.

Day Eighty Six - Poverty

I found this during some research I was doing for one of our contracts. This is all information I have heard before but reading this hit me particularly harder today than usual. This is reality:

Poverty is a multidimensional phenomenon and must be analyzed from the dimensions of consumption, human development and vulnerability. Looking at the international accepted form of consumption poverty, 51 percent of Southern Sudanese currently – over 4 million people – live below the nationally determined consumption poverty line of SDG 73 per month. This is not an internationally comparable figure, because PPP data is not available for South Sudan to allow a $1-a-day comparison. Moreover, data for other dimension of poverty suggest that the degree of poverty suffered in South Sudan is not adequately reflected by it. The proportion living below the national poverty line corresponds to Millennium Development Goal (MDG) 1 of eradicating extreme poverty and hunger.

The poverty headcount, though easy to understand, does not provide information on how close or how far away the poor are from being able to satisfy their basic needs. The poverty gap measure estimates the average shortfall in consumption relative to the poverty line. The poverty gap in the population as a whole is 24%. The poverty gap among the poor (i.e. excluding those not classified as poor) is 47%, meaning that the average poor person in Southern Sudan consumes the equivalent of just SDG 39 per month. MDG goal 1 includes this as one of the indicators for measuring progress.

These are just words and number but just take a moment to really process what they are saying. To put this in perspective, I on a good day spend an average of 25 SDG (SSG) per day in Juba and I know people who spend 75 SDG per day (If you can believe that). The situation in which the majority of Southern Sudanese people are living in is entirely inconceivable for me.

Day Eighty Four - Observations

Today as we were driving from Wau to Aweil, I tried to imagine the stories of all the people we were passing on the side of the road. I had a long time to contemplate this considering the drive is a bumpy 3-hour trek down maram dirt roads.

It really depends on whom the person is you are passing to imagine what their life story is. And really this is all my imagination and I am probably not close on analyzing these people by what they look like or what it was they were doing. There were some men on bikes with piles of wood or charcoal on their bikes. I wonder how long they had been riding for with that heavy load weighing them down. I am sure it is much longer than I think. Then there are the people who are just walking. I wonder where they are going or where they are coming from. I wonder where they live and what it is like.

There are people on bikes, people walking, people sitting. I noticed there were many more women and men with traditional clothing and jewelry compared to when I was north of Aweil. I wonder why that is? They are certainly beautiful people.

It would be amazing to do a study and research of people here by coming out to the rural areas and fully immersing oneself into their culture and live among them for a long period of time. It would certainly be a challenge but it would be incredibly eye opening and life changing. I would love to learn more about rural culture here. I am sure I will not learn by going out to the bush and living with the people there but in one way or another I will learn more. I think this type of research and observation of a group of people is called Ethnography (I may be mistaken on that)

On a lighter note, I saw for the first time today a man riding a bicycle with a live goat hanging in a sack on either side of the back of his bike. I almost didn’t believe that it really was goats in the sacks, but sure enough, they were goats. Sudanese people transport just about anything on a bicycle it seems. Priceless moment.

Day Eighty One - Back to the Basics

South Sudan officially has its own currency as of today. Goodbye SGD and hello SSD.

We moved back to Transmillenium this evening. Home sweet home. After waiting for Lawrence who got lost trying to find our compound, 2 round trips, and dragging bags through the dirt, we have officially moved back. The compound we moved to had to many bad vibes and it was really not working out for us. I am happy with being back at Transmillenium, although I will miss the concrete floor and locking door. Tents are not ideal but this compound is so much better. More secure, better people who do not lie to you, better toilets and a better location. And they even put down new dirt so the paths and parking lot is much better and not so muddy. Less mud makes me happy.

Who knew we would prefer to live in the tents.

Day Eighty - Cooking

Yet another beautiful rainy day in Juba, I went running at UNMIS and only almost fell twice. No flattened, dead frogs, but there were a whole bunch of hobbit sized vultures. Seriously. These things are huge. Some of them are perched on top of lamp posts and they seriously look like small humans sitting up there. Massive.

Thanks to our great personalities and excellent working skills, we have been provided with a temporary office near Arkel. This could not have come at a better time considering the fuel shortage. No more long trips to the office at Jebel for a while.

The highlight of my day was being able to cook our dinner!! We made some friends who have a kitchen and do not like cooking for themselves. They offered their kitchen to us, provided that they get to eat the food we make. Pretty good deal I would say. We only have two elements to cook on and the oven did not seem to want to cooperate with us but we managed to cook up a pretty good meal of stuffed peppers and a yummy corn, tomato, red onion and feta salad. It was a lot of fun and so nice to hangout at a 'real house' and have good conversations over good food and wine.

It was a lovely evening. And of course our food was so delicious we were given an open invitation to cook for them anytime we want.

Day Seventy Nine - Shortages

Yesterday we discovered, on our way to the office, which is roughly a 30 minute-ish drive from where we live in TongPing, that there is a fuel shortage. We drove to 5 different petro stations only to find that they had no fuel. Wild goose chase. The story is that there is no fuel coming from Khartoum and the fuel that is available is from the Somalian’s who do not have a good relationship with the government, therefore, they are making it next to impossible to get petro. Black market is where it’s at yo. Our mechanic hooked us up with some petro/I think our driver had to wait in line for hours and hours to get petro. Ugg. This fuel shortage is also to be worse than the one back in June, which is not reassuring. Back in June, Lawrence once waited in line all day to get fuel and I am not even sure if he ended up getting petrol. The realities of living in South Sudan and not in a country where fuel prices are the only matters which concerns a person. Back home I would never worry about the fact that we may one day not have fuel for our vehicles. We get frustrated when the price increases by 5-10 cents. I cannot imagine what would happen if one-day people went to the gas station and they said there was no fuel. People would probably think the world was coming to an end. If fact, the world would not end, you just have to alter your schedule and limit the use of your vehicle. For example, today, after driving to the office to find that we were locked out due to the fact that it is a national holiday so our guard and fellow office mates were not working, we ended up driving back to Arkel to work for the day. Even though we wasted petro driving to the office for no reason, it all worked out. We got yogurt for breakfast and we were given a temporary office for the next month that is very close to our accommodations. And much to Alexandra’s enjoyment there is A/C, which does not really work but it is better than nothing. Back in June, boda boda’s were really the only mode of transport because no one had fuel to fill their vehicles. I hope it does not come to that. Boda’s are neat, but they are not ideal modes of transport.

I attempted to document this today, but alas I did not have my camera and my phone camera was not working for me. You should have seen the lines of vehicles and boda boda’s at the one petrol station, which was evidently providing fuel. It looked like a traffic jam but it was only people patiently waiting their turn to fill up their vehicles. The boda boda’s were the greatest sight because there were so many of them and they were in two lines, sitting in pairs. It was quite a sight.

Day Seventy Eight - So Bold

I almost stepped on a flattened, dead frog during my morning run at UNMIS. Eww.

Our enthusiasm of moving to our new compound has already slightly dissipated. We have very limited power, much to our disappointment and anger towards the manager who told us there would always be power. Bold face lie. Not a good way to start a relationship with tenants. Lying to their faces. SO BOLD. And very unappreciated. I will keep you posted on what comes of this whole situation. I really do like 4 walls, but I do not appreciate living in a place that does not have the amenities we were assured it would have. Dishonesty is not acceptable.

Day Seventy Seven - 4 Walls

The luxury of 4 concrete/wooden walls and a swinging door with a lock are surely taken for granted in many parts of the world. I moved out of Transmillenium tent camp, along with the girls today. We are all very ecstatic about it. We moved in the morning in the rain. It started raining before 5am, which is when I woke up and had to pee so bad I had to brave the pouring rain to go to the toilet. When it is raining buckets on your tent it is very hard to get back to sleep with a full bladder. I did not go back to sleep so I was able to appreciate the fact that this would be the last time I heard people banging around in the kitchen, sweeping and the dirt hitting the side of my tent, random peoples music of all kinds, the zippers of others tents opening and closing and having the slight panic that it was my tent which opened and some intruder is now in my tent. That never happened thank goodness. But seriously, all zippers sound alike. I am extremely happy with my new accommodations, even if the toilets are squat toilets. I can deal with that because I now have a mattress on my bed, which does not have the evidence of previous sleepers on it and my hipbones and shoulder blades will thank me. They will not dig into the bed frame anymore. I am also very happy to have a real tile floor and a real door that locks. Not so stoked on the fact that I now have to keep track of my room key…AND we purchased awesome fans in the market all by ourselves and even fit 3 of them assembled into the back of the Rav4 along with a suitcase. Very impressive.

The rain sounded like a fuzzy radio or lost tv channel this morning. It was strange.

I finished my book this morning. Six Months in Sudan has come to an end. I enjoyed reading about a fellow Canadians experience in Sudan even though it was entirely different compared to mine considering her was here in 2007 and located in Abyei working for MSF. Very interesting to read, thought provoking. Reading it makes me think about what parts of my day I chose to focus on and contemplate. So much goes on and you see so many things and once an environment becomes normal you do not notice everything as easily or as often compared to when you first arrived. When I first arrived everything was so new, and incredible different it was overwhelming to the point of exhaustion.

Day Seventy Six - Half Day

A half day of work spent at Arkel, half indoors in the climate controlled environment provided by the A/C units and half spent outside because the A/C combined with the toxins of cooking food fog my mind, therefore, making focusing on work quite difficult. It is a good thing we did not have a lot to do today or I would have not been able to get it finished.

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Transmillenium and we are all feeling very excited about it.

Day Seventy Four - HI

I have been granted the position of team lead on one of our next projects. What does that mean? Well let me tell you. It means that I will be in charge of basically whole project. Eek. It is based in Juba so I will not be going to the field for a while. For as much as I like the field, it will be nice to stay in Juba for a longer period of time than just a few days.

I will be conducting a baseline Knowledge, Attitude and Practices (KAP) survey for a new organization. I will be researching what the situation of persons with disabilities and the difficulties they face. It is going to be very interesting and quite a learning experience for sure.

The goal of the organization is to reduce global poverty and promote disability inclusion and awareness in the communities the organization is working in. They promote the respect for the rights of persons with disabilities (PWD). Their aim is to develop projects that improve the living conditions of PWDs in South Sudan.

The final result of this research project will be used to inform future awareness and advocacy activities conducted by the DPOs and are presented to different stakeholders. The survey will assess the communities’ knowledge, attitude, practice and beliefs around disability.

What will be most interesting is that there has never been research like this done in South Sudan so I will be the first to do so.

Day Seventy Three - Research

When one looks up the word research in the dictionary one will find the definition according to Wikipedia is: can be defined as the search for knowledge or as any systematic investigation, to establish novel facts, solve new or existing problems, prove new ideas, or develop new theories, usually using a scientific method.
This is technically what I do but with a Juba, South Sudan/our company flair. The steps of a research project go like this (in my mind):

Step 1 – Submit bid for contract
Step 2 – Be accepted for said contract
Step 3 – Design tools, and draft terms of reference
Step 4 – Research begins
Step 5 – Write report
Step 6 – Submit draft report
Step 7 – Submit final

Our research consists of quantitative and qualitative data collection. Quantitative research is raw data collection and produces more general data. The aim is to identify features, and then make statistical models from that data. Smart phones are used for our data collection. In theory the phones are a great idea, but I really don’t like them. They cause me more stress than I would like but they do save us time in data entry and trees. Qualitative research is about exploring issues, understanding the facts and answering questions. It gives us the “why” for the quantitative research. It gives us an in-depth understanding of the community we are conducting the research in.

I enjoy qualitative research because it means that I get to walk around the markets, observe, interview retailers, and do focus groups with community leaders and other groups of people. It is very enjoyable and very informative. I am essentially getting paid to sit and listen to people tell me stories. Working with the data collectors consists of training the data collectors on the surveys we are doing and teach them how to use the phones. Then I sit in the market waiting for my data collectors to come to me with problems. It is not too stressful. The stress comes when dealing with the phones after our work in the market is finished.

This, in short, is what I/we do...

Day Seventy Two - Flipped

Happy Aniversary Cassandra and Russ!! You are both amazing. I hope your day is wonderful!

Today I watched a lorry (a big truck) flip over on the road. I did not actually quite believe I was seeing correctly but I sure was. Another truck came and t-boned this truck, or atleast that is what I think happened, and the truck flipped upside down. Seriously i just watched the truck roll over. It seemed like it was slow-mo. I thought I was imagining things. The moment it happened people on the streets immediately ran to the scene. I assume the people in the vehicle were ok but we did not drive past. Scary. Good thing I took extra long to pay for my drinks at Arkel or else we would have been on the road when the accident happened.

I stand corrected in my last post: Benedicte is actually the person who saved me from the spider, as she so humbly pointed out. The waitress only shoed the spider away from our area. I was too absorbed in my panic attack to remember who saved me from the spider.

So the other day we got a flat tire, and after almost having to change it ourselves (because we are strong independent women) someone kindly changed it for us. Good. Unfortunately we had to take the Rav4 to the garage this evening because there was most definitely something messed with the 'spare' tire. The rim is apparently bent so therefore not functioning. I also dubbed the Rav4 with the name Bent.

This is not the Rav4 but it is a bus with a lot of character....

Day Seventy One - Relocation

Happy Birthday Father!!! I hope you had an excellent day. Miss you a little more today :)

We now have driving privileges, and by we I mean Alexandra. We have taken over the Rav4. Yay! The freedom of having our “own” vehicle is so nice. Not having to rely on a driver and waiting around to be picked is so nice. The best part is that Natalie is letting me get my driver’s license. I am so stoked. Driving here is a whole new experience/adventure due to the conditions of the roads, especially those that are more like dried up river beds, the stupidity of boda boda drivers and the unpredictability of other vehicles on the roads. Oh and of course pedestrians who do not seem to have any fear of motor vehicles of any kind. One problem we have now is that we only know how to locate a few places in Juba so we sometimes get lost or can’t reach our destination because we cannot find a passable road. We are getting better at navigation and we are even working on burning some CDs so we have driving tunes.

Another new development today…we are moving! Sayonara Transmillenium and hello new quiet compound with a concrete room with the possibility of moving to a self-contained room, access to a kitchen and a TV. Yay! No more living in a tent. Not that the tents were that horrible it is more the compound, which I am not so happy with. Being woken up at 6am everyday to women banging around in the kitchen, sweeping, people brushing past my tent, and my least favorite is the Warrior Security men who come for training in our compound. Their staring eyes as I walk to the toilet, their shouting and scuffling of chairs will certainly not be missed.

Day Seventy - Two Words

I hit my low today with my irrational fear of spiders.

I was calmly sitting outside at Logali House (a nice restaurant with and covered outdoor area) and I look down and there is something black on my ankle. It took me a second to register what it was but once I did it was instant panic. Two words for you: jumping spider. I had a border line panic attack due to the fact that the spider was sitting on me, and due to the size of the table I was sitting at and the plastic chair not sliding back as fast as I needed it to AND I didn’t have shoes on to run away. Due to the fact that the spider can jump it jumped onto the table leg and proceeded to crawl up, once again getting close to me. I panicked. Made quite a scene. Had many worried looks come my way and the staff just laughed at me, but one waitress saved the day by shoeing it away. Alexandra made an attempt to help but she is also afraid of spiders. It was ridiculous. I eventually recovered and got a hold of myself but goodness gracious it really shook me up.

Day Sixty-Nine - Meow

First things first, HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHERILYN! I hope you have a wonderful day!

So today I am doing a feature post on my wonderful colleague Alexandra.

We were sitting outside sending an email, when a older man walked up and handed Alexandra a piece of paper. Once he left, we examined this piece of paper only to discover that it was an origami-esk cat with a note on the back saying "Please Open Me". Inside there was a message, "You are probably already spoken for, and I am probably too old for you, but you are hotter than hell". He put a lot of effort into this little cat and the most hilarious part of it is that Alexandra hates cats. I had major flashback from middle school when passing notes back and forth to people was the cool thing to do.

Not only are there bold bugs here, but there are also bold men here as well...



I also bought a yoga mat today...yaya!

Fun fact: Huff da (pronounced hoofda) means "oh boy" or "opps" in Norwegian. Who knew.

Day Sixty-Eight - The Office

There is nothing better then a rain cooled breeze after an afternoon of sweating profusely in a poorly ventilated office with a fan that sounds like the propellor of an airplane.

Our office is a 40 minute drive from Transmillenium over bumpy dusty roads. It is one room (the joined room is the office of the organization Compass), roughly 15x12, it feels smaller than that due to the 4 desks, a cabinet and a large table, and of course our ghetto fan. The walls are white, and kinda brown because they are dirty. There are 3 opening windows which are very very nice on a windy day, but not so much when the sun is shining high in the sky. We are attacked by a clan of ants daily, but it is getting better. I killed some today and then watched their surviving family members carry them off. I actually felt kind of bad for killing them after that. It as like they live by the motto, "leave no man or woman behind". Oh well. They bite me so they deserve it. Alexandra hates the office, she has nothing good to say about it except it is better than Arkel. (I had her permission to write that last part).

Today it was confirmed that I need to put more effort into learning Arabic. Not being able to convey what I want is starting to get a little frustrating when I can't communicate with anyone by the office. Fortunately there are English speaking people around so they sometimes act as translators but that can't happen forever.

I saw a beautiful rainbow in the middle of the sky on our drive home. I may have got a little too excited but it was the first rainbow I have seen and it was so nice.